Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

Immersed in the scent of tropical flowers and sounds of nature, amid the mist lifting from the white water breaks of the Ayung River, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan eclipses Ubud’s many other five-star resorts on the scale of theatrical experience.

Checking in at night after the journey from Europe, we were too worn out to appreciate at first just how much the experience of the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan was designed to offer moments of delightful surprise.

It starts with the arrival experience. Think of coming to a halt in a somewhat nondescript arrival station, always staffed, but with barely a standing desk. You’d ask, it’s surely not the last stop?

It is not. From there, you’re taken, on foot, onto a long sky-bridge leading directly to the tour de force of the hotel’s architectural vision: the infinity-edge rooftop pond, suspended over the misty valley of the Ayung River. This is when it becomes clear that all this, so far, is simply part of the gradual unveiling of the hotel.

It’s a welcome, visually choreographed, almost theatrical. It fits this property well, but it is only the first act—and the hotel’s building is not really the central stage. That role is filled by something else entirely.

In the Ayung River Valley

The name of Frank Lloyd Wright is sometimes invoked to describe the postmodernist, futuristic architecture of the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan. This is to draw the supposed link between the landscape-focused Four Seasons and Wright’s most famous private residence project, the iconic Fallingwater house. Less known is the fact that by building over a waterfall, the architect made the house unlivable in the long run, due to the constant noise of the falling water.

All the better that the comparison to Wright’s 1930s icon is superficial. The Four Seasons at Sayan does take chances with the main building’s bold architectural forms, but it’s not a purely formal exploit—though it very much works as the device that delivers the first “wow” impression.

Crucially, once inside, we realized that high ceilings and vast open spaces looking out to the valley serve as an auditorium to the real subject of the drama: the beautiful landscape.

The breakfast provided the best opportunity to appreciate the sights. From the restaurant terrace, we’d stare in wonder upon the morning mist lifting from the river down below, and the first confident sun rays flooding the hotel gardens with their brilliant streaks.

The hotel grounds are extensive, and an electric buggy is needed to move about unless you fancy a stroll at the bottom of the valley, where the landscaping is the most beautiful. We did fancy the stroll. From the riverside infinity pool, through manicured rice paddies studded with tall palms, down to the spa villas with their lily ponds, the gardens are utterly enchanting.

Balinese villas

Natural beauty aside, the hotel’s living spaces never compromise on comfort and luxury.

There are a good few types of guest accommodation (including the suites in the main building), but the most sought-after are the Riverfront Villas with pool and rooftop ponds, reminiscent of the drama on top of the hotel’s main building.

Ours was a beautiful and spacious Sayan Villa placed at the highest point of the resort, with a large swimming pool. Surrounded by well-maintained, mature greenery, it’s a picture-perfect sight… with the sound of a cascading brook and birds elevating it another level still.

The old trees and tall bushes betray the hotel’s age, but so does the high level of service. All members of staff display the level of confidence and training indicative of the well-established resort and brand that the Four Seasons is.

From butlers to the front desk, from restaurants to spa, smooth operation in every moment adds to the sense of a well-rehearsed theatrical play—all focused on making the guest’s experience perfect.

in our opinion

Privileged with a stunning location in an enchanting jungle enclave of the Ayung River Valley and delighting with a flawless service, the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan stands out as one of Ubud's most luxurious resorts—on an island that exceeds the density of five-star resorts like no other place.

This is definitely one of the Travel+Style Editor's Pick hotels.

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What we love

• Very beautiful, perfectly manicured gardens and landscaping. Lush rice paddies with small cascading waterfalls are an integral part of the hotel grounds.
• Our huge Sayan Pool Villa (# 50) had a super-comfortable bed and great outdoor spaces to relax, opening to an expansive valley view. It was very private too, verdant greenery surrounding it from three sides. Sounds of water from a small stream down below completed the dream.
• Riverfront Villas are our next favorites. As the name suggests, they are placed right on the bank of the Ayung River and come with rooftop lily paddies. Picture-perfect!
• Amazing spa, The Sacred River—we tried the treatment in the Spa Villas. They are very serene and the massage was wonderful.
• The beautiful circular rooftop lotus pond reflects trees at the top of the valley slopes. It's very much the focal point of the resort.
• One of our favorite hangouts was the Riverside Café with the sensually-shaped, two-level swimming pool—and we loved the river itself, especially in the morning, when the sunshine filters through trees in brilliant beams of light cutting through the mist.
• Fantastic views from the Ayung Terrace, where we had breakfast.
• Legendary Four Seasons service. We never had to ask twice or worry about being misunderstood, which is something we learned to accept at other hotels in Asia. That's quite a feat.

What you should know

• The hotel is about 20 minutes by car to Ubud town center with all the bars, boutiques, and sights. There is a free shuttle service every couple of hours starting at 9 am (finishing at 5:25 PM).
• The resort is located on hills and is spread out—you will need to call the buggy service, at least from some of the villas.
• Wifi is free, reliable, and fast.
• There are two spas, one in the main building and the other in the Spa Villas, surrounded by lush greenery and lotus ponds. Try to get one of them as they are more serene and relaxing than the treatment rooms in the main building spa.
• The hotel offers complimentary jungle trekking, cycle tours, daily wellness classes, and traditional Balinese dance performances.
• For guests seeking a traditional “Balinese” look and feel, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan could appear as too Art Moderne.