Amandayan, Lijiang

The toned-down design of Amandayan’s 35 luxurious suites clustered around tranquil courtyards is a quiet triumph of Aman’s philosophy in which a real sense of place becomes the defining element of the hotel experience.

Any Aman resort we visited so far is created around something extraordinary. It is often the location—a remote clifftop, as in Amanoi or Amankila, direct access to a medieval palace, as in Beijing’s Aman at Summer Palace, or a unique site at the edge of a national park where tigers roam (e.g. Aman-I-Khas in Rajasthan). But the “special” factor also lies in the resort design. Amandayan follows this template expertly.

Architecture that belongs

Responsible for the vision of Amandayan was the architect Ed Tuttle, with interiors by the acclaimed Jaya Ibrahim. The creators incorporated within the resort the original building of the Wenchang Palace, dating back to 1725, carefully preserving its colorful paintings and ornate carvings. The rest of the hotel’s architecture seems to take cues from the Wenchang design—and complement it.

Local building traditions of the local Naxi people provided further inspiration. The decor features embroidery of the Naxi, as well as beautifully carved traditional Chinese latticework screens. The result is sleek and minimalist, yet warm in the use of pine and elm.

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Embedded in Lijiang

Amandayan is built on a hilltop within the Old Town of Lijiang, one of China’s most picturesque destinations. Its quaint alleys, canals and streams, blossoming gardens and the typically-Chinese, sloping tiled roofs all echo in the resort’s design.

The best example of this is perhaps one of our favorite spots at the hotel: the main swimming pool set up. The reflective sheet of water, the wood paneling, and passages around it, the colors and textures… somehow they all speak the same language as the old town.

Body and soul

The pool is an extension of the well-equipped spa, which has a gym, yoga pavilion, and four treatment rooms. Furnished with steam room, shower and bathtub, they are perfect for indulging in heavenly treatments that include a rice wine bath and spirulina body wrap.

But for us, the best place at Amandayan was always our first-floor Deluxe Suite. Its spacious layout and unmistakably Chinese design made it a genuine pleasure to be in. We loved the terrace outside—which had a view over the resort’s rooftops and the mountains beyond—especially when we’d sit there with a glass of wine, immersed in a quiet conversation.

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in our opinion

This beautiful resort enchants with a great location, unassuming service, and understated design, exemplified by the classic Aman quality of belonging to the local aesthetic traditions.

What we love

• The resort's sublime design and architecture. It feels traditionally Chinese and contemporary. The guest suites are wonderful. Their clean lines do away with clutter and provide a sense of space.
• The location. From the resort, it takes only a short walk down the stone-paved pathways to the central parts of the Lijiang Old Town—and the hotel overlooks it. The view over the iconic rooftops is nice especially at the sunset hour.
• Fantastic food—some of the best dishes we had been served in China. We loved the breakfasts, and the dinners were absolutely sublime.
• Amandayan’s private Cinema. It's a real deal, with thirty reclining leather seats and a 42.5-square-meter screen. There is a list of films to choose from and seances are free, you just need to book it.
• Well trained staff—worth noting in such a new hotel. All strike the perfect balance of attentiveness and professionalism.
• Beautiful tea house serving both Chinese and Western afternoon teas. The tea house terrace is the best spot at the hotel to gaze over the Lijiang old town.

What you should know

• The hotel has one two-bedroom Amandayan Suite set on 440 square meters, ideal for families traveling together.
• This hotel is a good base to explore sites further away, including the Black Dragon Pool, the Tiger Leaping Gorge, or Baoshan Village.
• As we discovered in many hotels in China, the level of English varies between the members of staff.
• Amandayan is some forty minutes drive from the airport.
• Lijiang's delicate pagodas, arched bridges, and cobblestone streets are one of their kind—and make this place a very popular destination for China's domestic market. It should come as no surprise that these days the town is bursting at seams with tourists. This does take away from the charms of the town.
• Lijiang is loud with music and partying, particularly in the evenings—and the noise reaches the hilltop location of the hotel easily. This is potentially a problem, especially in the spa as you try to have a relaxing time.
• Getting there: The flight-comparison sites such as Skyscanner (www.skyscanner.com) or Kayak (www.kayak.com) will help you find the best flights and deals.