Château la Chenevière, Port-en-Bessin, Normandy

France remains one of the most popular destinations in the world, and Normandy has a lot going for it — including hotels that promise an authentic French château experience. And the 18th-century Château la Chenevière is one such place.

Normandy has always been on our must-visit list, so it was a no-brainer to pick it as one of the first trips in the not-quite-but-maybe-almost-post-pandemic world. Setting off from Paris, we explored Normandy by car, and Château la Chenevière was the perfect hotel to check into as we got to the Bayeux area. (By the way, did you follow our journey on Instagram?)

The château is located in the countryside near Port-en-Bessin, a sleepy seaside town, and it occupies an old estate and farm, originally growing hemp. The estate was turned into a hotel after 133 years of ownership by the Gosset family (and was certified five-star in 2014). The farm’s origins are reflected in the hotel’s name, for La Chenevière means “The Hemp Field.”

The rooms

Twenty-nine guest rooms and suites are filled with light and retain the sense of period splendor. Elegant furniture and marble bathrooms are paired with paisley wallpapers, velvet armchairs, floral headboards, and soft pastel tones. The living spaces strike a nice balance of vintage design and modern aesthetic.

We checked into a Deluxe Executive Room and loved its open plan under the beamed ceiling and the luxurious freestanding bathtub. It’s the only room on the hotel’s highest floor, with splendid views of the gardens and wooded park.

Beyond guest accommodation

The ancient trees flanking the chateau are the pride of the place; there is even a map to guide guests from one old tree to another. The grounds are green and wooded, with parts of the park thickly covered by bushes, hiding some parts of the hotel. Le Petit Jardin restaurant, with the adjacent swimming pool area, is one such part. So are tennis courts, and the estate also has a rose garden, vegetable fields, and beehives that serve the hotel’s two restaurants. Speaking of which, the honey, made by the estate’s bees, is simply delicious.

The bistro-style restaurant by the pool is housed in a glass-covered conservatory and is open for lunch and dinner, with a diverse menu inspired by regional dishes. But breakfasts were our favorite, served in the chateau. Excellent local cheeses, charcuteries, homemade cakes, and fresh fruit.

Like family

What we noticed about the hotel from the first moments — and that impression persisted throughout the stay — was the lovely atmosphere at the château. Château la Chenevière had this casual country charm that felt familiar and lived-in. It was like visiting a distant family in an English country manor, except a family with exceptional — dare we say, French — taste.

But a great part of that atmosphere was created by the people. From the get-go, we had the sense that the personnel were not only truly delighted to have us, but they seemed to treat us almost as family. It made for a truly memorable stay.

in our opinion

Château la Chenevière is a prestige hotel with two on-site restaurants, a great swimming pool area, and beautifully-styled rooms. But the atmosphere, like staying at a family home, was what made the stay special.

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What we love

• We were lucky to stay in the Executive Deluxe Room. Try to book it if you can — it's the only room of its kind and the most unique in the château. Best views, too, from its highest-floor location.
• That said, every room and suite is a true haven of comfort, offering the perfect blend of a traditional interior design with a modern style and a lovely ambiance of a country house.
• Château la Chenevière is one of those places where you can arrive in style: by helicopter. The sprawling lawn in front of the hotel is certified as a helipad.
• The heated outdoor swimming pool and its surroundings. It's beautifully set, peaceful, and surrounded by greenery. You can easily spend a whole day here, especially as lunch is served at the poolside Le Petit Jardin.
• The range of available activities, from tennis (on-site) to attractions such as a helicopter flight over the D-Day landing beaches.

What you should know

• The hotel (and its restaurants) are open seasonally, from April until mid-December.
• Large families or groups (up to eight) can book Escures House, a standalone cottage away from the main building.
• There are bikes that guests can grab (for free) to explore the countryside.
• Le Petit Jardin restaurant, open for lunch and dinner and located in the glass-roof conservatory, is well-known in the area, so book in advance.
• You can visit Normandy by train, but exploring the region by car was perfect, as it gave us flexibility and freedom. Check Rentalcars.com to compare car rentals and find the best price.
• We stayed at la Chenevière as we explored the WW2 memorials, including D-Day landing beaches, the American Cemetery, and the lesser-known Longues-sur-Mer battery. The hotel is also close to Bayeux (only ten kilometers from the hotel), famous for the 11th-century Bayeux Tapestry that tells the story of the conquest of England by William the Conqueror in 1066.