Angama Mara

To walk on the Angama’s viewing decks, or to enter its beautifully designed tented suites is to have the breath taken away for a brief moment, every time. Perched high above the African plains of the Mara, this place is sure to give you a sense of floating, as if suspended in a dream. But Angama Mara is so much more.

“Out of Africa”. You must have heard it many times. The Out of Africa safari, the Out of Africa style, the feeling, the romance, the airplane? Many camps in Masai Mara and Serengeti try to bank on the sentiments behind that quintessential African romance story, told in the 1985 film starring Robert Redford and Meryl Streep (and earlier in the original Karen Blixen book).

More broadly, the nostalgy for the 1920s safari adventures seem to inflect the savanna camp concept towards the vintage look, to the point where it is almost expected. Too soon, maybe, to accuse the Masai Mara properties of following the cookie-cutter design templates, but the attitude is there.

So it is this much more refreshing to discover a safari lodge that not only can lay the strongest claims to the Out of Africa legacy but that it can do so without serving its guests that retro vibe. Quite the opposite, in fact. Angama Mara differentiates itself with its contemporary design and style.

Cinematic

The link to the Sydney Pollack film has to do with the camp’s location. The lodge is perched just meters above the spot in which some key scenes of the film were set. Also, the composite photograph for the promotional poster was created from the shots taken here. (We tried to recreate the shot, for our own amusement — did you see the photo on Instagram?)

That poster only hinted at the amazing views the location enjoys. The lodge describes itself as “suspended in mid-air”, and this reflects our impression of the place. As we’d come at sunrise out to our suite deck or stroll in at lunchtime to the main viewing terrace, every time we were simply amazed at the panoramic vista of Masai Mara, hundreds of meters below.

The breathtaking scenery alone makes the stay here worthwhile. But the design of Angama Mara, the safari drives, the high service level, are all just as important elements of the experience.

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A different safari style

The lodge is split into two parts, with 15 guest tents and its own lounge and restaurant area. Each lounge is an open space, wrapped in stacking glass doors and divided by internal columns, floor level changes, and distinctive roof features. Opened to the expansive viewing terraces, these living areas are very much focal points of the camp.

We loved to hang out here, and not only because of the views. The food is a major plus of Angama Mara. It was probably the best we had during this trip (in which we toured Tanzania and Kenya). What we loved the most about the menu was that it was changed every day and that it was focused on simple, unfussy and light cuisine. And all very tasty.

Sophisticated and elegant, both the overall architecture and the interiors of Angama Mara are thoroughly contemporary, with only hints of the “safari vibe”. It lingers in the chic furniture, in the splashes of red color reminiscent of the Maasai blankets, in brass fittings, or in heavy carafes filled with whiskey and gin.

The open plan and free-flowing space is almost a standalone feature of the common areas, and this carries over to the guest tents. The outdoors are invited in, and the expansive views are never forgotten.

Sights and memories

A spyglass on the terrace by the restaurant is a great tool with which to try and spot animals a few kilometers down on the savanna, but, of course, we were here to do it for real.

The drive down into the Mara is not smooth, and the all-terrain vehicles are tested to their limit, but it is always worth it. We savored the safaris here and enjoyed some amazing encounters with the wild inhabitants of the Mara Triangle.

One morning we had breakfast on the savanna, under a lone acacia tree, with a pair of cheetahs hanging out just a few hundred meters away.

Thanks to the guides of the Angama Mara, we brought great memories from the trip, and a desire to return to the area once more. And why not again to Angama? It’s pretty much the perfect luxury lodge from which to rediscover this beautiful corner of the planet.

in our opinion

There are so many things to love about Angama Mara, from the discreet, impeccable service, to excellent guiding and simple yet delicious food. For us, what truly sets the lodge apart are the breathtaking views and the elegance of its design.

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What we love

• The lodge is situated on top of the Oloololo Escarpment, in the exact location made famous by 1985 Out of Africa film. This ensures amazing views out over the reserve and direct access to the Mara Triangle.
• A beautiful design of the interiors and architecture, by Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens. The designers bring to Mara a touch of high-end architecture, while their take on guest suites has a sophisticated maturity that oozes contemporary chic and elegance.
• Our tented suite. It's one of the most luxurious and well-appointed we've stayed in Mara. Ah, and the heated bed is the best thing ever!
• Great service, both in the restaurant and everywhere else in the lodge. The staff very quickly picked our breakfast habits and would anticipate the orders, and be ready to refill glasses at the precisely right moment. Guests also get a butler service.
• One of the best experiences we had was a bush picnic — with a view and champagne — on top of the nearby "Out of Africa" hill. It was unforgettable.
• We loved the food overall. It was light, fresh and unfussy, and always tasty.
• The lodge is divided into two camps, each with 15 guest tents. It makes the place cozy and intimate.
• The camp has an excellent library, carefully curated with a collection of books and films, mainly focused on safari, Kenya, and Africa.

What you should know

• The best way of reaching Angama Mara is by a light aircraft. Scheduled flights, e.g. operated by Safari Link, land at the Kichwa Tembo Airstrip on the plains below. From there it takes 45 minutes to drive to the lodge. You can also charter a plane, which lands on a small airstrip next to Angama.
• While the location means beautiful views over the Mara, descending from the escarpment to the park's gate takes a lot of time and effort over the steep, barely passable road. The 4x4 is put to good use!
• There is a lovely swimming pool, but it does not overlook the Mara. It is located out at the back, by the arrival area. The lodge has also a gym and a nice gift shop, where you can purchase a high-quality craft created by the local Masai.
• The North Camp has probably the best views, and the viewing terrace has the most picturesque setting.
• The guest tents feel very private, and at the time of our visit there weren't many guests, but we imagine at full occupancy the place must feel busy as the tents are located quite close to each other.
• Some rooms are a bit more tucked in the bushes and don't have as expansive views.
• The animal migration is in the area usually between July and October. It's the best time to visit.
• This part of the Masai Mara can get very busy at peak months when people flock in to observe the river crossing. The guides do their best to avoid the worst of this safari traffic, but in these times the sense of wilderness is somewhat diminished and it is not possible to have the place to yourself. By the way, expect the vehicles to be shared.
• If you have enough time, make sure to do a hot-air balloon ride at sunrise. It's a fantastic experience.
• Getting there: The flight-comparison sites such as Skyscanner (www.skyscanner.com) or Kayak (www.kayak.com) will help you find the best flights and deals.