Soneva Kiri

We knew this was going to be special, but the real discovery was that Soneva Kiri is more than a luxury resort. Visiting it was a little like tasting an entirely new way of life, organized around a philosophy of being at one with nature—without forgoing any of the modern-life comforts.

Soneva Kiri is the second resort created by Sonu Shivdasani and his partner Eva, a hospitality industry power couple and the driving force behind the idea of a back-to-nature, barefoot luxury holiday. Their all-encompassing concept of intelligent luxury is designed to turn a holiday into a magical experience.

For us, it began with the greeting by the hotel’s representative at Bangkok’s International Airport. We were whisked through immigration to a BMW 7 Series limousine, to be boarded onto Soneva’s private airplane (see What You Need to Know), after a short ride to the domestic airport.

Outside of time

Soneva’s unique brand of luxury involves a remote location of the unspoiled island of Thailand’s Koh Kood. The other ingredients of the Soneva experience were revealed soon as we touched down on a private airstrip.

First, we met Mr. Friday—our personal assistant, a butler, who promptly “confiscated” our shoes, in accordance with the resort’s ‘no news, no shoes’ policy. This whiff of a castaway philosophy certainly put us in the right mood from the moment of arrival.

Soneva Kiri is the right kind of place to completely unplug from reality. Time seemed to slow down here. Even the resort’s guiding principles are called SLOW LIFE. They encompass unforgettable, enlightening experiences that are designed to rejuvenate guests’ holiday experience “whilst treading lightly on the Earth”.

A 5-minute boat ride from the airstrip is the final frontier between civilization and a Robinson Crusoe idyll. Of course, unlike the legendary protagonist, the guests disembarking on the arrival jetty don’t have to worry about building their own shelter. Or about anything else, for that matter.

Fantasy Structures

The rustic-chic luxury pioneered by the Soneva brand takes inspiration from wild nature and adds layers of discreet luxury, exquisite attention to detail, and otherworldly service, creating a sophisticated, exclusive environment.

The architecture of the resort plays a large part. Kiri’s approach creates a place that seems to have spontaneously sprung up from the ground, amid tropical foliage.

Bamboo and raw wood are used extensively in construction, and there are acres of wooden decks and pathways. Private swimming pools are shaped organically, which is mirrored in canvas canopies, seductively strung above the spacious rooms and lounges.

No two guest villas are alike, but all share the same effortless design quality and are always sumptuously spacious and private. Our beach villa was the kind of place we never wanted to leave.

Transcending innovation

But venture out we had to, and not only because the electric buggies provided for each villa are fun to ride. The resort has a lot to offer.

To the mix of eco-focus, sophisticated design, and superb level of service, Kiri adds another ingredient: unique and sometimes quirky ideas that make a stay at the resort one of a kind.

There is the outdoor cinema (a pop-up cinema over a lake, staff handing out popcorn and drinks), there is the fully-fledged astronomical observatory, and there is the magical structure of The Den, possibly the greatest kids’ clubs ever. Similarly inventive is the Treetop Dining Pod—a truly special “place”, which every guest should check out.

Three restaurants offer a consistently superb cuisine. The health-obsessed menus are more evidence of the resort’s synergy with nature—Soneva even produces its own cheese, milk, and yogurts. Once a week, the resort organizes a beach barbecue.

More frequent—daily, in fact—were our visits to the chocolate room and the irresistible ice cream parlor (more than 60 flavors, free). Good-bye, diet. Then again, in a place so outside of normal life, one can be forgiven a lapse or two.

in our opinion

Rarely ever do we see a resort so perfectly fine-tuned to its own eco-aware philosophy while simultaneously obsessing with a superior quality of service.

This was one of the best hotel stays we've ever experienced—we don't hesitate in awarding Soneva Kiri with the Editor's Pick.

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What we love

• The location, on a remote, lush, tropical island. The resort's beach is fantastic. It has a large swath of white sand, flanked by a forest of tall palms.
• Soneva Kiri is in its own league when it comes to the level of service—it creates a very special sense of luxury.
• Amazing architecture, especially the guest villas. These gorgeous tropical hideaways wow with massive swimming pools, lots of open-air areas, and well-concealed technology. Our beach villa was one of the most beautiful we've ever stayed in.
• Smart technology and clever solutions, like the TV set hidden inside a pile of vintage suitcases.
• Our own electric buggy to ride about—it's fun and made us feel independent.
• Superb treatments and great ambiance at the Six Senses Spa, run by one of our favorite brands.
• Tree-top dining: this is a must-try. The unique pod is hoisted on lines dozens of meters up to the canopy of trees, and the meal is served. Where else will your waiter sport a climbing harness?
• Children's facilities, in particular The Den—absolutely fantastic playground in a huge spaceship/manta-ray -shaped building, made of bamboo. It's a childhood fantasy incarnate.
• The no news no shoes concept is not just on paper. We went barefoot for the entire stay—and loved it.

What you should know

• The resort takes its ethical responsibilities seriously. Recycling waste, conserving water, and stewardship of the environment are paramount. Kiri grows its food and supports locals by getting supplies directly from local farmers and fishermen.
• This is a very large resort, so you really have to drive everywhere. Just remember to plug in your electric buggy whenever you can, to avoid a flat battery (though when that happens, the next passing member of staff will take care of you!)
• Prepare for a bit of a journey to get to the resort. Arrival at Bangkok's international airport is followed by a limousine transfer to the domestic Don Muang Airport (this takes about 30 minutes depending on traffic), and then a 90-minute private airplane flight to Soneva Kiri airstrip. The last bit is just a 5-minute motorboat ride.
• Kiri used to have a dedicated airport lounge, but it doesn't anymore, and the arrival experience suffers a bit. In our case, courtesy of flight cancellation (not Soneva's fault), we had to wait quite a bit in some diner with mediocre food… Of course, not the end of the world, but on the other hand, this wasn't exactly consistent with everything else at Soneva—because as we discovered later, they really do know how to spoil their guests!
• Soneva Kiri may have a private plane, but its flights are arranged on a fixed schedule.
• By the way, guests staying in Bangkok must make their own domestic airport transfer arrangements.