&Beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp

Commanding sweeping views of the African plains, where the vast herds of wildebeest roam, with excellent game drives and beautiful tents, and Beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp evokes the romance of safari. But what’s the thing we remember the most…? Read on to find out.

Have you ever realized how big Africa really is? The maps tell a lie. The standard map-of-the-world rendering, designed to preserve the lines used for navigation, distorts the true proportions of continents and oceans further from the equator. The result is a common misconception that Siberia, Canada, and Greenland are almost as big as Africa. Nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, entire Asia is comparable to Africa’s landmass.

It’s no wonder then that while the plains of Serengeti and Masai Mara are a tiny part of the African continent, on the human scale, they are still vast. It is this region that’s the stage for the Great Migration, for many people symbolizing the African experience.

Human perspective

Under the iridescent sky, the humongous herds of Gnu move like one giant organism, on a year-long trek that never ends. The area they traverse is massive. Even the Mara Triangle, on its own, while only a small part of the migration corridor, covers more than 500 square kilometers.

A tiny spot on the map here belongs to a famous safari camp, and one sunny day, that point was our destination. That day we crossed the border from Tanzania to Kenya, with the goal of reaching and beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp.

Mara Safari

Located on the edge of the Mara Conservancy, this is a classic safari camp run by the well-known safari provider that specializes in luxury camps and lodges of unparalleled design. And just as many other properties of &Beyond, Kichwa in many ways exemplifies the local safari experience.

It’s one of the oldest camps here (established in 1982!), and its layout and design remind us of the time before safari was the fashionable thing to do. All the same, the camp has undergone some updates recently, and their new tents are spick and span. Stylized and funky, these tents feel modern, fresh, and luxurious. Their chic elegance definitely resonates with our idea of perfect safari accommodation.

The Oloololo Gate of the Mara Conservancy is very close by, so the thick of the wildlife action is just a short drive away. The landscape here is also the “classic” Mara, peppered by lone acacia trees and low bushes. The safaris are always interesting and the guides among the best there are (we were constantly amazed at just how good they were at tracking well-camouflaged animals — we even saw the black rhino, twice!)

Good creds

Kichwa Tembo is proud of how much effort goes into social responsibility. Roughly half of the staff is recruited from the nearby Masaai villages, and the camp purchases products locally when possible (e.g. honey, organic vegetables). They also contracted a group of Masai warriors who perform cultural dances on scheduled days. We witnessed one of them and it was a thing to behold.

We suspect &Beyond’s investment into the local community shapes the staff attitude, in turn influencing the guest experience. This is because the people who work here make this camp truly exceptional. Many have been employed for more than a decade — always a good sign — and give out a genuine vibe of being a member of a big family rather than a hotel staff. They introduce this approach with a lovely, warm welcome, singing “Hakuna Matata”, and strive to make sure the guests are taken care of at every moment during the stay.

Kichwa has many repeat guests. Among other things, the reason for coming back is the approach from every member of staff, ever so personal and warm. We often hear that this is “the best-loved safari camp in Kenya”, and this sounds about right.

in our opinion

This &Beyond property offers a classic safari experience that includes great wildlife sightings and a stylish stay in the new Superior Tents.

While perhaps not as intimate as some other high-end camps in the Mara, Kichwa Tembo is a good, deluxe-level choice and an all-round camp that combines a beautiful setting, excellent facilities, and warm and personal service.

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What we love

• The camp is situated in a lovely spot at the foot of the Oloololo escarpment and close to the banks of the Sabaringo River, and offers good access to wildlife — the gate to the park is very close.
• The view over the Mara is great, especially from the elevated swimming pool. It's the best spot from which to relax after a morning filled with safari adventures.
• We adored our luxury Superior Tent. It had everything we'd want from a chic, beautiful savanna accommodation. Additionally, as it was located in the first row, the beautiful Masai Mara sunrises were part of the package.
• Indeed, one of the best things here was welcoming the day as sunrise shone into our tent, and we'd open the canvas flaps and step out with fresh coffee and cookies, just brought in by the butler. We loved to lounge in front of the tent and look out for the passing giraffes.
• Great safari drives in an open 4x4. The camp's guides are deeply knowledgeable and professional, and wildlife sighting is good, even in the "low" season, outside of the migration months.
• Much is done in maintaining the low environmental impact of the camp, from small things, like biodegradable bathroom amenities, to big schemes, e.g. the assistance in wildlife conservation.
• Nice dinner experience. It's a china-and-silver type of affair, but they still manage to keep the atmosphere very informal and friendly.
• There is a well-equipped shop, stocked with essentials and gifts. It's a good place to run out of batteries (like we did!)

What you should know

• The great animal migration moves through the rolling grasslands in the area between August and November — this is the best time to visit this corner of the Masai Mara.
• The camp is fenced, so no wildlife comes into the camp, which makes it safe to wander around, also after dark. On the other hand, it made us feel less in touch with the wilderness of the savannah.
• There are, however, some quasi-domesticated animals roaming the grounds of the camp. There is the shy waterbuck, often found resting somewhere by the tents, and the funny resident warthogs, who are “employed” as lawn maintenance. At dinner time, the hilarious thing was the ear-piercing calls of the Hyrax, an animal just a bit bigger than a rat. You'd never guess they could produce a sound so loud.
• Keep in mind the camp is situated outside of the reserve. This means the safari drives have to factor in time for returning to the main gate before closing.
• The camp is well set up to cater to larger groups, which means that it can become quite busy at times.
• The 4x4 cars are limited in number, so expect to share the drives with other guests.
• There are no two ways about it: the Classic tents are dated, especially by comparison to the wonderful, new luxury Superior Tents (We advise booking one of the tents in the first row, for the best experience). The main area feels a bit too hotel-like, lacking personality.
• If you travel here from Nairobi, take a Safari Link plane and fly directly to the Kichwa Tembo airstrip. The flight takes roughly one hour. Then it's a further thirty minutes by 4x4 to reach the camp, with a chance for a game viewing en route. Road transfer from Nairobi is possible, but it's a seven-hour trip.
• What we did was a bit different. We arrived from Tanzania, via the border crossing in Isibania, at Migori Airstrip. Tip: if you choose to do a similar thing, make sure you have all the vaccinations up to date and your Yellow Fever book on you — they will check it on the border.