Amangalla, Galle Fort

Our last journey in Sri Lanka took us from Tea Country to the Yala National Park, and as we turned back north, we followed the coast, finally arriving at Galle. The city is famed for the unique 17th-century Galle Fort, designated in its entirety as a Unesco World Heritage site.

Here we knew exactly which hotel we wanted to check into—Amangalla, a beautiful city hotel from the elite-resort operator Aman Resorts.

Colonial history

Originally built in 1684 as the headquarters of the Dutch commanders and their staff, the building at 10 Church Street was very soon transformed into the New Oriental Hotel, which for the next 140 years catered to the European passengers traveling between Europe and Sri Lanka.

Fast forward to the 20th Century, and the property was given a new lease on life, thanks to the luxury group Aman Resorts. Putting into the project all the experience and wisdom acquired in creating dozens of resorts around the world, Aman hired architects and designers to turn the 17th-century building into a masterfully restored property.

The result? High ceilings and whirring overhead fans, dark teak floors, an atmosphere of colonial splendor—and a deep sense of time and history.

Mod cons

The historic credentials of Amangalla do not prevent its guests from enjoying every modern comfort. The rooms are equipped with air conditioning, in-room iPhone docks, and a luxury freestanding bathtub in the bathroom. Privacy and tranquillity of the hotel are well-matched by service tuned up to the world’s best five-star standards.

The hotel’s swimming pool is a standalone highlight. Surrounded by a well-maintained garden and flanked by old palm trees, it’s a great place to spend a slow afternoon. More chances for relaxation and pampering can be found in the on-site spa, with its candlelit chambers and hydrotherapy pools.

Not to be missed are sundowners on the long balcony on the upper floor and the High Tea in the front veranda. Speaking of which, the meals are consistently excellent. We loved the spicy omelets and egg hoppers, and the signature dish of the traditional curry is also well worth recommending.

Galle and beyond

The Fort was built as a fortified city that blended European architectural templates and South-East Asian styles. Today it is still enclosed within the original walls and ramparts, and much of the original architecture is preserved.

A charming, sleepy atmosphere sets Galle apart from other destinations in Sri Lanka. The town is full of historic churches, temples, museums — but also stylish cafés and boutiques. Striving to preserve the colonial origins, all the establishments here invest in good interior design and maintain the European vibe.

Other than trinket shopping, lazing in cafes, and taking leisurely walks on the fort walls, there isn’t actually all that much to do in Galle. It’s a great place to slow down — and Amangalla is the perfect place to do just that.

in our opinion

Aman resorts are always quietly glamorous, but this hotel has the additional layer of history, harking back to the heyday of steamship travel and the European colonial expansion. With a decor of antique colonial furniture, including four-poster beds and 300-year-old floors, the hotel enchants with a unique ambiance.

Don't miss our trip report: Checking In: Amangalla.

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What we love

• A sense of time and place. The property fully embraces its past—they even created a small museum with personal photos, antiques, and mementos belonging to an illustrious noblewoman and the building’s last owner
• The service is of the genuine Aman kind, which means: absolutely the best. The staff is discreet, courteous, and anticipatory of any wants and needs we may have
• Great location. The hotel stands at the heart of the Galle Fort, a UNESCO-listed heritage city
• Amangalla is perfect for spending a few leisurely days. From the meticulously maintained gardens to the quiet library and the tranquil Baths spa — it's a hotel made up of serene spots
• The swimming pool has a great size (21 meters) and is beautifully set among the greenery. Its permanent loungers are ideal for leisure
• Culinary moments and great food overall. Don't miss the High Tea served on the front verandah
• The best suite is the top-floor corner suite with grand shuttered windows offering views of the neighboring 18th-century Dutch Reform Church.

What you should know

• There are no elevators in the hotel, so the lower-floor room will be more suitable for anybody with limited mobility. Also, this being an old building, the rooms are not well soundproofed. Book in the courtyard garden wing if this is a problem, as these are the quietest rooms
• Galle Fort is quite small, and sightseeing and activities are somewhat limited (though not doing much was exactly what we needed…). That said, it is a good place from which to explore the coastal areas of Sri Lanka, as well as venture into the countryside
• A good idea is to combine Amangalla with a stay at its sister property, Amanwella (it's what we did — don't miss our Amanwella review). While Amangalla offers a heritage colonial city experience, Amanwella is a secluded beachfront resort that embraces a modernist, minimal style.