Hotel Esencia, Xpu Ha

Our first impressions of this charming resort were those of a Mediterranean palazzo surrounded by acres of well-kept gardens. And we weren’t much wrong with that comparison — even though geographically, Esencia is as far from Europe as any place. Located 20 minutes from Playa del Carmen in the Yucatan Peninsula, Esencia was initially built as a tropical home of an Italian duchess. These origins set the tone of the architecture and the elegance of the entire estate.

Today, the hotel is infused with Mediterranean elegance, but its unique style merges a strong contemporary aesthetic with Mayan accents — especially in the guest rooms. The interiors are defined by the minimal white-on-white theme, with only pops of intense color in armchairs, sofas, and cushions. The space is abundant, and the amenities are of the highest quality. All this speaks to Esencia’s refined luxury and high living standards.

The main building, the three-story Casa Grande, caters as much to the ultra-modern sensibilities as to the sense of history and elegance. It is the hotel’s central point, linked which 42 suites and three villas by elegant footpaths, woven through the manicured gardens.

Set amid lush tropical grounds, the property feels intimate and exclusive, and it is a world away from the busy Playa del Carmen. Indeed, the hotel is well placed away from huge resorts and the clamor of crowds. Swimming pools with ocean views, a romantic beach, easygoing bars, and excellent dining options create a sense of detachment from everyday life. The spa, one of the newest additions to the hotel’s offerings, adds to the sense of tranquility.

We’d start every day at Esencia with coffee and freshly-baked pastries, delivered to the little storage box on our porch. It’s a lovely tradition, which tends to put us in a good mood first thing — and it is but one example of a well-thought-out and friendly service. After breakfast, there was as much or as little to do as we wanted, from chilling by the pool to an occasional sightseeing trip. The long beach, always empty, was perfect for long walks, and the restaurant, well attended and run, ensured culinary delights in between.

We stayed here outside of the busiest season, and the hotel was quiet and almost deserted — which suited us just fine. And when we come back to Mexico and the Riviera Maya region, we’ll know where to check back in.

in our opinion

A favorite spot for honeymooners and families alike (and an occasional celebrity), Esencia offers luxury and privacy, a great level of attention to detail, and true culinary delights.

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What we love

• The entire property is quite beautiful, its grounds expertly maintained, and gardens manicured. The hotel also has direct access to a sweeping curve of a beach.
• Interior design. All rooms have a squeaky-clean white-on-white theme, broken up with splotches of color in locally-sourced fabrics and cushions. The style is infused with mid-century chic, while designer furniture is expertly selected to express the feeling of a carefree vacation in the hacienda.
• Great guest accommodation — starting from the room size (every single one could just as well be called a suite) through to amenities. All have at least a private terrace or a porch, and most come with plunge pools or hammocks. The former master bedroom in the main building (Casa Grande) today is called the Master Suite, and it offers a view of the entire hacienda from its huge terrace. The top accommodation (Private Villa) comes with a dedicated butler and can accommodate six people.
• Wonderful food, from breakfast through dinner — perhaps the best we had on the entire trip? Unexpected delightful discovery: deep-fried avocados!
• We loved the little touches. Pre-breakfast coffee with pastries delivered to the room, complimentary beach bags, flip-flops (stylish Havaiana Sandals), free minibar.
• The airy spa has a herb garden, housed in a circular Mayan-inspired building, with open-air massage tables and decadent treatments.

What you should know

• Esencia feels remote. There are no neighboring hotels — but also no good restaurants within walking distance.
• The bars are open only until 11 PM, and the Beefbar Esencia is only open on Saturdays and Sundays from 6 to 11.
• This pet-friendly hotel is well suited for families with kids. Babysitting is free; there are multi-lingual nannies, a kids' pool, and a range of itineraries designed with the little ones in mind. This also means there can be a lot of families during the school holidays.
• What to see in the area? We traveled across the Yucatan Peninsula and visited the picturesque colonial towns of Izamal and Valladolid and the splendid ancient Mayan city of Uxmal along the way, but these places are also possible to visit on a day trip from Essencia. There are many cenotes in the area as well. Playa del Carmen is 30km to the south, and Cancún is an easy hour's drive away. Tulum is the closest (only a 30-minute drive).