Serra Cafema, Kaokoland

Getting to Serra Cafema is a tough journey. Hundreds of square kilometers of mountains and desert surround the camp and no permanent roads cross this part of the country. The only way of traveling here is an arduous flight on a bumpy light plane. It may be one of the remotest luxury camps in all of Africa—but reaching it is worth every effort.

We flew from Sossusvlei, first over Namibia’s long Skeleton Coast and then the colossal Haartman’s Valley. The flights took about three hours and were followed by one more hour driving along the dry and flat valley and rugged mountain ravines—to finally descend down to the lush banks of Kunene River.

River at the world’s end

Kunene flows along the northernmost end of Namibia, forming a natural border with Angola. As the only permanent river in this part of Africa, it cuts through the Namib desert and mountains like a glittering ribbon of life, entirely at odds with the surrounding desert wasteland.

The most astonishing thing about this place is the extreme contrasts. The lunar landscapes of sand dunes and scorched black rock meet the wild greenery on the banks of the river. The lush foliage is full of twittering, chirping birds, yet the surrounding desert has more than plenty of evidence of the deadly conditions for zebras and even oryxes, otherwise so well adapted to the desert life.

Yet perhaps the most remarkable discovery here is the Serra Cafema Camp itself.

Luxury in an unexpected place

Overlooking the river and perched right on its bank under the precious shady trees, Cafema is a haven of relaxation and luxury.

Small, secluded and beautifully designed, the camp is eminently comfortable. Its eight large tents are made of canvas, wood, and glass and are topped by thatched roofs. Each tent comes with its own en-suite bathroom and plenty of space for lounging, including a vast terrace with hammock.

The whole camp is raised on platforms and linked up by wooden walkways that lead to the central area, where we found the dining lounge, a small swimming pool, and a well-stocked bar. There is even a curio shop.

Quads and Himba hamlets

Serra Cafema offers plenty of exciting, unique activities. We did scenic drives every day and went on a boat trip, during which a massive crocodile gave us an angry display of hissing and tail-bashing. On the last day, we quad biked, which was one of the best things we’ve ever done.

The journey to Cafema does not only mean traveling the geographical distance. This part of Namibia was one of the last Western civilizations reached and as such it remains the most authentic—or the least “spoiled” by modernity.

The nomadic tribes of Himba people inhabiting this land live just like their ancestors have done for tens of thousands of years—all the way back to the earliest humans. The Himba are some of the last prehistoric people on the planet.

Our visit to the Himba hamlet was one of the most unforgettable experiences—even though it offered just a glimpse into the life of this fascinating tribe.

in our opinion

This is surely one of Africa's most remote camps and it has to be amongst the finest on the entire continent. A stay at Serra Cafema is a beautiful adventure—and a true privilege.

We often think about this place and consider ourselves lucky to have visited it. We are happy to award Serra Cafema the Editor's Pick.

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What we love

• The stark beauty of the rugged mountains and the wind-swept sand dunes, contrasting with the riverside oasis of greenery: it's just such a surreal, remote wilderness;
• The camp, built right on the Kunene River, is simply gorgeous: guest tents are very large and there is only eight of them. As exclusive as it gets!
• Outstanding service, superb guides and overall excellent hosting by the staff—every minute was great;
• This is one of the best places to meet the last truly authentic Himba people—our visit to a local village was an eye-opening experience, and one of the highlights;
• Another highlight was encountering Nile crocodiles on the Kunene River. They are an unusual sight in the desert;
• Quad biking in the otherworldly, dreamy landscapes around Serra is a one-of-a-kind experience. We absolutely loved it!

What you should know

• When quad biking, closely follow the instructions of your guide—the ride can be tough and over often dangerous terrain;
• Stay at least for three nights to make the most of the place and experience;
• This area is not for game viewing. There are oryxes and gemsbok, springbok and Hartmann's mountain zebra can be spotted, and hyenas if you are lucky, but only the toughest animals survive in the extremely dry conditions. Also, be prepared to see remains of dead animals, victims of thirst and hunger;
• The nature of this remote camp means the staff and guides are limited in number—you may be somewhat dependant on other guests during the activities. However, the staff is very helpful in accommodating special requests;
• This is a malaria-free zone;
• Overall this is a destination for seasoned travelers—but worth it!